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Did you know that Electric Brewing is more energy efficient than brewing with A common misconception about Electric Brewing is that the wort will somehow. Electric Brewery Control Panel on the Cheap: If you are into home brewing then likely heard of "The Electric Brewery" created and run by a fellow named Kal. anesi.info Download · anesi.info · Download. Tip Question. own % electric set up and built his first homebrewery in the family's cold room — the only available space in the house. When the family moved into a newly.
The purpose being to simplify the design and reduce cost. An on-off-on toggle is a good cheap choice and is what I used. For the relay, you'd wire the black and white wires from the pump outlet to the relay instead of the black and red. After brewing on it for over a year we have never thought twice about the decision. Our products are only available through this website. Not just the panel which to me is the heart and soul of the brew process but all aspects of the layout and equipment. Just use whatever household VAC 15A double outlet you have sitting around.
Next locate the output relay using the connection diagram printed on the outside of the case or the user manual. Then desolder the VAC relay. Lastly we shunt the 12VDC trace to the output lugs so that we can access this signal outside of the housing. One final note is that you will need to configure the PID controller to reduce the cycle time to around 2 seconds which is often the minimum on relay output PIDs since rapid cycling of the mechanical relay will quickly cause it to fail.
Having removed the mechanical relay and now driving an SSR with no moving parts we want the system to respond more rapidly. The following are guidelines when selecting components: Burner Lights: The burner lights illuminate when the SSR and contacting relay are active. When this happens, the lights will have VAC across them so you need a light rated for VAC and they will illuminate.
A VAC light will draw twice its design current and burn out quickly. Neon, incandescent, and LED lights for this duty are available. I recommend you head to your nearest electronics surplus store or pull from salvage equipment. Nothing fancy is needed. You could eliminate these but since it is handy to know when the big heaters are being made hot the lights are a nice to have.
Keep them. A keyed switch isn't really needed, but it adds a cool factor especially if you need to turn two keys in unison to arm the system. Also a keyed switch will keep random passers-by from firing up your brewery, as long as you hide the keys somewhere.
If you hide the keys somewhere you are sure to forget where you put them because hey, we're brewing beer here and you can't brew beer without making room in kegs for that beer by drinking beer. Make sure you have a second key made. Any keyswitch rated for VAC will work.
No real current handling capacity is needed since the keyswitch just enables the main relay. Burner enable switch: The important spec on this switch is that it have an off and two separate on states and be rated for VAC.
An on-off-on toggle is a good cheap choice and is what I used. Heater element receptacles: You will need to be sure that the plugs on the end of your heater element wires are compatible with the receptacles you have on your control panel but as long as everything is rated for VAC and 30A you can choose what you like.
I went with locking receptacles to prevent pull out, but those are a little pricey. As you can see from the pictures I used 4-wire plugs and receptacles but only 3-wire is needed 2 hots and a ground. However I had the 4-wire parts lying around so Go for it. You can do it. If you find a cheaper PID or have some sitting around you can likely mod them to work.
SSR output preferred. The specifics will be up to you, feel the burn. Pump Switch: All you need is on-off and capable of handling the voltage and current of the pumps.
The pumps are not a big load nominally but since they are motors their start up current can be large. So oversize the switches here. Rate them the same as your pump receptacles for peace of mind.
Pump outlet receptacles: Just use whatever household VAC 15A double outlet you have sitting around. Failing that, buy the cheapest at your local big box store. Nothing fancy here. Temperature probe sockets: Use a socket that matches the cables on your temperature probes. Anything will work, no current capacity or special voltage requirements needed. Holes for the PID controllers, the switches, lights, plugs, receptacles, and other penetrations are also cut with the laser.
The laser-cut pieces comprise the front, top and bottom of the housing, with scrap plywood screwed to an internal frame to form the sides and back.
The sides and back are thicker wood and are screwed together such that they form one U-shaped piece and the frame with laser-cut panels form the main piece that slides into the sides and back.
See the exploded CAD view. Screws hold the two halves together and allow the box to be disassembled in the event that additional changes, repairs or work needs to be performed on the electronics within. The thicker sides and back are cut slightly larger than the laser-cut panels and frame to allow overhang to somewhat protect the thinner wood panels from damage.
You will need to modify the attached laser cut files PDFs to match the components you choose. Particularly, the cutouts for the lights, switches, and receptacles may need to be changed. The final step is to wire everything up.
This is where attention to detail, a steady hand, and a ready supply of curse words can come in handy. Make sure everything is unpowered when you are wiring, be safe, and understand what you are doing. Releasing the magic smoke from inside electronic components is not a good way to reduce system cost. A lot of the wire in the control panel is heavy duty to carry large currents and is thus hard to work with.
When using terminal strips you may find that it helps to tin the stripped ends of the wires.
Crimping on ring and spade lugs will be required so pick up a crimp tool when you buy your lugs. The attached pseudo-schematic gives you an idea of what you want to do. In the schematic, thick fat wires are heavy duty 10 gauge for the 30A heaters. The rest are drawn with thin lines and can use smaller wire like 20 or 22 gauge since no appreciable current will be carried.
However, the wires for the pump switches and outlets are drawn in medium weight because they should be 14 gauge since the outlets are rated to 15A and you may be plugging things into these outlets such as pumps, fans or the occasional vacuum cleaner that may draw a significant current. The terminal strips were converted into "Bus" strips by using short sections of solid copper wire that short the terminals together as you can see in the photo of the interior wiring.
It is considerably less expensive than using propane or gas no tanks to fill! We are working on adding more videos to our TheElectricBrewery. Complete instructions on using the brewery along with videos are being worked on and will be added in the future.
Our beer is kept in stainless steel Cornelius kegs old soda kegs that are popular with home brewers. The beer is served on taps in our basement bar where we typically have four styles on tap at any given time.
A C0 2 tank is used to dispense and carbonate the beer. All our beers are brewed with fresh sometimes organic ingredients, and are created to be full-flavored. No shortcuts, no compromises. We typically brew about once a month. Who knows, you could be the next star of Pimp my System…. Draw upon the collective knowledge of homebrewers around the world to get your questions answered. Help out your fellow homebrewers with their questions.
When a cartoon character gets electrocuted, its furry little body goes stiff for a …More. Avid homebrewer Paul Blatz was looking to pimp his system when he came across ideas …More. This weeks pimped system is brought to us by Andrew from Boulder, His system includes …More. Want to enjoy exclusive access to member-only content and more? Join the American Homebrewers Association or start your day free trial no payment necessary today!
Forgot username or password? Way more efficient compared to direct fire. Thanks all, for a great product.
Definitely a satisfied customer here. When it came to controlling our 20 gallon system there really is no other choice to make except The Electric Brewery, all other options for me were a compromise that I was unwilling to make.
Besides the obvious 'wow' factor, the panel is easy to operate and allows us to achieve repeatable results on our beers. I would highly recommend The Electric Brewery system to anyone who is looking to do the same. Thanks Kal! A Russian Imperial Stout. Hit all the numbers. Your control panel was an absolute pleasure to use.
What a beautiful, intuitive, functional piece of brewing kit. Please thank Mike. The build quality exceeded my already lofty expectations. Our standard control panel for producing up to 20 gallons of finished product per batch. Pre-assembled and ready to use. A single element is used in both the boil kettle and hot liquor tank.
The control panel is the heart View full product details. Our control panel for producing up to 20 gallons of finished product per batch, back to back. A single element is used in the boil kettle and hot liquor tank, but both may be run Our control panel for producing more than 30 gallons of finished product per batch or to speed up your brew day by reducing heat times. Perfect for bbl pilot systems. Up to two elements DIY kit.
You supply the tools. The control panel is the All rights reserved. Powered by Shopify. Menu 0. Buy Now. Look forward to the days when you brew! Hobbies like brewing are supposed to be enjoyable! Product details 27 mb colour PDF file, pages. View full product details Kettle orientation Boil kettle on left side default Boil kettle on right side.
Add to Cart. The Complete Guide to Building Your Brewery An electronic book version of the build instructions on our website perfect for reading offline, printing, or just having a complete backup.